1973-1977 Chevrolet Malibu Wagon | Classic Plus Package
$1,895.00
Classic Plus Kit
Analog System: Manual Paddle Control
Built for the purist who demands a direct, mechanical connection to their suspension, this system strips away the digital clutter—no finicky ride-height sensors, no self-leveling headaches, and absolutely no electrical gremlins.
Instead of fighting an operating system to get your car to sit right, you are in total command using dash-mounted mechanical paddle valves. Operation is instinctive and bulletproof: lift the lever to air up, or push it down to lay the chassis out, releasing the pressure with a distinct pneumatic hiss. By combining classic needle gauges with raw, physical control, this predictable setup puts you in absolute control of your ride height without electronics getting in the way.
Kit Highlights:
- Bolt-On Simplicity: Front and rear brackets are engineered to utilize your chassis’ existing mounting points or factory spring seats. No heavy fabrication or welding is required for the standard installation, making it a true garage-friendly upgrade for classic builds.
- Maximum Stroke Premium Airbags: Engineered for extreme stance and structural integrity. Our custom bags compress down to a razor-thin 2.8″ to achieve a completely slammed profile, and extend to a massive 10.8″—delivering nearly 8 full inches of usable stroke and a 600 PSI burst rating for unmatched pressure capacity.
- Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank: Forget standard 4-to-5 gallon setups that leave you waiting around. We include our exclusive, high-capacity 6+ gallon tank to give you maximum air volume, faster recovery times, and plenty of reserve for when you want to play with the switches.
- Premium Heavy-Gauge Wire Package: Power your compressor reliably with heavy-duty, 8-gauge UL-listed power wire, complete with an integrated 40-amp Maxi fuse assembly to ensure proper circuit and system protection right out of the box.
- Spare Air Roadside Relief Package: Ultimate peace of mind. This package features a tank quick-connect and a 20-foot air coil hose with an air chuck, allowing you to easily air up a flat tire or use your onboard air anywhere around the vehicle.
- Precision Plumbing Essentials: No hacked lines or tedious leaks. We pair our premium DOT Brass air fittings with a dedicated tubing cutter for razor-sharp, square cuts and include high-performance airtight sealant to ensure a dependable, airtight seal.
What’s Included:
- (4) Premium 2500-Series EZ AIRRIDE Airbags: Featuring a steel-braided waistband, a massive 600 PSI burst rating for unmatched pressure capacity, a razor-thin 2.8” compressed height, and a 10.8” extension for nearly 8 inches of usable stroke.
- Complete Vehicle-Specific Bracket Kit: Heavy-duty, powder-coated front and rear brackets designed specifically for your chassis. Includes all necessary bracket-mounting hardware. (Note: As with all classic custom suspension builds, checking clearance around factory frame pockets during mock-up ensures long-term bag life).
- Front Shock Relocation Pack: Includes custom-designed shock towers, shock absorbers, and heavy-duty lower shock mounting studs to cleanly reposition your shocks away from the bags.
- Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank: High-capacity tank featuring a custom port configuration designed exclusively for this kit’s plumbing layout.
- 200 PSI Heavy-Duty Compressor: Features a 100% duty-cycle output, a built-in check valve, and our exclusive anti-vibration “Sound Stabilizer” isolation mounting kit.
- Classic Plus Integrated Control Panel: Custom aluminum panel featuring four premium manual paddle valves paired with twin dual-needle, glass-domed gauges. Includes bright white LED illumination and DOT push-to-connect fittings for complete 4-corner pneumatic control and real-time pressure readout right from your dash.
- 80-Foot Roll of 1/4″ DOT Airline: Premium, high-pressure airline with more than enough length to easily route through the longest classic cars and trucks.
- Builders Power Pack: Includes 20 feet of 8-gauge UL-listed power wire, a 40-amp “Slow-Blow” integrated fuse, a clear diagnostic LED relay, a 165–200 PSI pressure switch, a dedicated tubing cutter, and high-performance AirTight sealant.
- “Spare Air” Roadside Relief Kit: Onboard air accessory package including a tank quick-connect, a 20-foot air coil hose, a 6″ air chuck, and a tire Schrader valve.
- Genuine DOT Brass Fitting Pack: A complete collection of premium DOT-approved brass fittings for your bags, tank, and gauges to ensure a reliable seal.
The Bottom Line:
- Not Just a Box of Parts: When you unbox your Classic Plus Kit, you are getting a complete, fully synchronized air suspension system designed to work together specifically for your vehicle’s chassis.
- Zero Guesswork: Every fitting, line, and bracket is perfectly matched to fit your ride right out of the box—with no extra trips to the hardware store.
- Built to Cruise: Bolt it on, drop it low, and finally enjoy the smooth, dynamic ride quality your classic cruiser deserves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is everything I need actually included in this kit?
The short answer is yes—and then some. Because “everything” means different things to different builders, we don’t expect you to just take our word for it. Check out our thumbnail galleries for a direct, visual checklist of every single component you will receive.
This is a completely synchronized system. You get the 600 PSI rated bags, vehicle-specific brackets with hardware, our exclusive 6+ gallon tank with premium fittings, the 200 PSI heavy-duty pump featuring our anti-vibration “Sound Stabilizer” spring kit, and the custom aluminum 4-corner gauge panel (complete with LED bulbs and wiring).
We also include all the crucial installation incidentals the other guys leave out: a heavy-duty pressure switch with extra wire length to reach your keyed power source, 20 feet of 8-gauge UL power wire with a Maxi fuse, a diagnostic LED relay harness, pro-grade AirTight sealant, and our “Spare Air” roadside emergency kit. Aside from basic shop tools and the elbow grease, it’s all in the box.
Are rear shocks included with this kit?
Our complete air ride kits do include the front shock relocation kit—which is mandatory on most classic GM cars because the factory front shock runs directly through the inside of the coil spring where your new airbag needs to sit.
But for the rear, because the factory shock mounts completely on the outside of the spring, it stays right where it is. That is why we do not include rear shocks, and it’s designed to save you money.
Because our premium rear airbags deliver an unheard-of 8 inches of usable stroke, the bags themselves shoulder 98% of the work. The more stroke a bag has, the less air pressure it takes to lift the vehicle, creating a naturally smooth ride. Because the airbag is doing all the heavy lifting, your classic cruiser only needs an inexpensive, basic gas shock to control body rebound.
In fact, buying expensive, heavy-duty performance shocks will actually take away from your ride quality because those stiff shocks will constantly fight against the dynamic movement of the airbags.
Our Recommendation: If your current rear shocks are ancient, leaking, or say “Hi-Jacker” (or any other type of air shock) on them, definitely replace them. But don’t waste your hard-earned money on high-dollar replacements—just swap them out for a standard, budget-friendly set of traditional gas shocks from your local auto parts store, and let our synchronized air system do the rest. And yes, to be completely clear: you still 100% must run a rear shock on your air ride system.
Do I need to buy aftermarket tubular control arms or drop spindles to run this kit?
No—and in most cases, you are actually better off sticking with your factory components.
Many big-name brands and online salesmen will push a $7,000 bill filled with tubular A-arms and drop spindles under the guise that they are “mandatory” for air ride. Based on our 12+ years of hands-on installation experience, here is our take on why we design our kits around your factory components, and why doing your air ride first will save you massive headaches:
Factory Arms vs. Aftermarket Tubular Arms
Our Classic Plus vehicle-specific brackets are engineered precisely to drop into the factory lower control arm spring pocket. If you swap to an aftermarket tubular arm, the stamped geometry of the pocket changes, and the standard lower brackets typically won’t seat correctly without modification.
Furthermore, our shop experience has shown that most standard aftermarket tubular arms lack an integrated lower shock mounting tab in the necessary position. Because our complete air ride kit includes the front shock relocation kit, you must mount a heavy-duty lower shock stud to the arm.
With Factory Stamped Arms: The factory arm features a flat, rigid steel vertical wall. You simply drill a clean hole, bolt the high-grade shock stud in, and the lower installation is complete.
With Tubular Arms: Mechanically, drilling a straight bolt through a hollow, round tube can risk collapsing the tube walls under load. To install a shock stud safely on round tubing, a builder generally has to grind down the aftermarket finish, weld custom reinforcement tabs, or install an internal DOM steel sleeve inside the arm.
Our Recommendation: Save your money. There is absolutely nothing wrong with freshening up your factory arms with a fresh set of ball joints and a coat of paint—nobody sees them anyway, and they will not alter the premium ride quality of our system.
(Note: If you already purchased aftermarket tubular arms, just let us know in the order comments or call us before ordering. We can custom-build drop-in brackets to adapt to your specific arms at no extra charge).
The Physics of Drop Spindles (Catalog Specs vs. Real-World Clearances)
Order-takers love pitching drop spindles because they promise a quick, extra 2 to 3 inches of drop. But they are selling catalog part numbers, not vehicle geometry, and they don’t know your specific car. They don’t know your wheel diameter, your tire aspect ratio, or what’s actually hanging underneath your chassis.
Here is the reality of a classic cruiser: an airbag system drops the entire chassis toward the earth. If you install drop spindles and an air ride kit together right out of the gate, you aren’t just lowering the body—you are dropping your mechanical vitals dangerously closer to the concrete.
If your car features an oversized aftermarket oil pan, low-hanging exhaust headers, or custom exhaust pipes that sit 3 to 4 inches below the factory frame rail, those vital components will smash into the ground long before your frame rails ever touch the grass.
Our Recommendation: Build in stages. Install our air ride kit first on your factory spindles. For 95% of builders, our 8 inches of usable bag stroke will have your cruiser safely kissing the concrete and sitting exactly how you want.
Once the kit is installed, air the car all the way down, crawl underneath with a tape measure, and check your clearances. If your oil pan and exhaust pipes still have ample room to breathe and you want to go even lower, then buy the drop spindles. Don’t risk cracking a custom oil pan on day one just to clear a catalog spec.
Why does this kit use 1/4" airline? Won't upgrading to 3/8" or 1/2" line make my car lift faster?
No—and this is one of the single biggest misconceptions in the air ride industry.
We get calls all the time from guys saying, “My buddy told me I need 1/2-inch lines to go fast.” With all due respect to your buddies, that isn’t how physics works. The diameter of your airline does not dictate the speed of your lift or drop. Your speed is strictly limited by the restriction point at the very end of the line: the paddle valve.
Think of it like a hallway leading to an exit. Your airline is the hallway, and the valve is the exit door.
Our Classic Plus kit uses manual paddle valves on the dash. Those valves have an integrated 1/4″ opening.
If you swap the airline to a massive 1/2″ line (or a literal garden hose), all you are doing is making the hallway wider. You can jam more air into the hallway, but it still has to exit through that exact same single door one by one. The velocity at the bag will not change.
All you actually achieve by running oversized 3/8″ or 1/2″ lines on a manual paddle system is a plumbing nightmare. You’ll be forced to use clunky reducers, and oversized fittings that do nothing but create massive routing headaches and guarantee a future of annoying air leaks.
Our Recommendation: Trust the engineering. Our 1/4″ DOT airline is perfectly matched to the flow rate of the Classic Plus manual paddle valves, giving you a smooth, predictable, and incredibly reliable cruise height adjustment.
(Note: If you are looking for a more efficient and faster lift & drop speed, look into our Elite Series Electronic Manifold Kits. These systems eliminate the use of paddle valves at the dashboard and mount true 3/8″ electronic manifold blocks directly to the tank. With stored air pressure sitting right behind the manifolds, activating the switch unleashes a rapid, high-volume flow of air straight from the tank directly to the bags).
How difficult is this kit to install, and do I need to take it to a professional shop?
The short answer: If you can change brakes, route automotive power wire, swap factory shocks, and use basic shop tools, you have the right foundation. The air suspension system is bolt-on, but the front shock relocation requires welding.
The Mechanical Breakdown
The Rear: Completely bolt-on. Relieve factory spring pressure, slide the old springs out, and bolt our vehicle-specific brackets right up. The rear shock stays in its stock position.
The Front: The bag and bracket assembly is a direct bolt-on once factory coil springs are safely removed. Because vintage front upper frame pocket tolerances vary, the installer must verify ample bag clearance through the full range of travel—aired-out, ride height, and fully lifted. Check for tight spots and perform any necessary minor trimming to ensure the airbag never rubs.
The Only Welding Required: Because the new airbags occupy the factory spring and shock pockets, you will discard the stock front shocks. You’ll weld our upper shock towers directly to the frame rail to accept our proprietary shocks. This requires solid experience with structural welding and fabrication.
The Classic Plus Control Panel
This kit is built on pure manual mechanics over hardwiring headaches, putting total control right at your fingertips. The control valves used to air the car up and down are built right into the gauge panel, which mounts to the dash.
The plumbing is beautifully straightforward:
Run four 1/4″ air lines from the switches directly to your four individual bags.
Run two feed lines from those same switches straight back to the tank.
No complicated wiring diagrams, no electronics—just pure, mechanical reliability.
The Plumbing & Electrical
The rest of the Classic Plus kit requires only basic routing:
Compressor Mounting: Secure your compressor in the trunk, connect the leader hose to the tank, and run the power wire to the battery.
Relay & Power Wiring: Run the pressure switch trigger wire to your fuse panel for a keyed ignition power source, then connect the 4-pin relay to the pump, pressure switch, power wire, and ground—all right there in the trunk.
DIY vs. Professional Shop
Shops typically charge anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 in labor for a full air ride install. The reality of a commercial shop means operating on billable hours and lift turnover. Because plumbing and line routing are the most time-consuming parts of an air ride build—requiring patience to strategically route, tuck, and hide lines for a perfectly clean finish—critical details can easily get rushed under a tight schedule.
A fast-paced shop environment can mean missing the small things, like installing rubber protective grommets through frame holes, routing air lines completely clear of moving suspension components, or double-checking every single fitting. Furthermore, few commercial shops can afford to let a vehicle take up valuable lift space for a proper 24-hour overnight leak check or final clearance testing. By taking your time in your own garage, you ensure every line and wire run is strategically hidden and secure. More importantly, you gain peace of mind that comes from knowing exactly how your system was installed, how every component was assembled, and that it was done right.