Built to Lay Frame. Ready to Cruise Smooth.
We don’t believe in “one-size-fits-all” brackets and stiff towing helper bags designed for heavy-hauling work trucks. While standard kits restrict your travel and create a stiff, rigid ride, our custom setups utilize 10-inch stroke airbags to deliver an incredible range of adjustability—delivering the ultimate balance of a low stance, header clearance, and total road comfort.
Tailored for ’63–’72 C10 / Suburban Geometry
We engineered this bolt-in kit to integrate perfectly with your factory front control arms and your iconic rear trailing arm suspension. Because GM designed this classic chassis with both the front and rear shocks mounted outside of the coil springs, our system gives you a direct, zero-hassle, bolt-on fit:
100% Bolt-On: Designed to bolt right into your existing factory coil locations with absolutely zero shock relocation and zero welding.
Protects Low-Hanging Parts: Instantly lift your chassis to clear steep driveways, saving your oil pan, headers, and exhaust from scraping.
Handles Heavy Engine & Tow Loads: Effortlessly supports everything from heavy cast-iron big blocks to weekend towing, keeping your truck level without bottoming out.
The Ultimate Stance: Drops your truck to a frame-laying stance when parked, while maintaining a smooth, comfortable ride down the road.
The Elite Kit
Maximum 4-Corner Control. Zero Computer Headaches.
This is our absolute best-selling system for builders who demand fast, independent control at the push of a button—without the complex wiring, drilling, and calibration headaches of electronic ride-height computers. By isolating the air to all four corners with our high-flow 3/8″ electric valve manifolds, this kit completely eliminates the sloppy, unstable body roll that plagues factory C10 suspension setups.
With a premium 7-button switchbox in your hand, you get total command over your truck’s stance. Slam it low when you park, or feel the fast-acting manifolds deliver a swift, buttery-smooth lift back to ride height without the violent, sudden jarring found in cheap setups. Best of all, because every corner is fully isolated, you can instantly level out the infamous “Chevy Lean” on the spot—keeping your truck perfectly level regardless of passenger weight, fuel load, or custom bed layouts.
Kit Highlights:
The Easiest to Plumb (Air Lines): Powered by our exclusive tank-mounted manifold design, your air lines run straight from the manifold to the airbags. This creates a clean, simple point-A to point-B installation with fewer fittings—making your system virtually leak-free right out of the gate.
Straightforward Wiring (Electrical): Once your tank, compressor, and manifolds are mounted under the bed or on the frame, you only run two wires forward: one heavy-duty power wire from the pump straight to your battery, and one lead wire to your fuse panel for a keyed ignition source. Everything else—the 4-pin relay and the manifold wiring harness—simply plugs together right at the tank management setup.
Real-Time Ride Height (Air Gauges): Forget computers, vulnerable ride-height sensors, or complex calibration headaches. Our twin dual-needle glass face gauges put your exact airbag pressures right in your line of sight. By showing you the real-time pressure of all four corners independently, you know your exact ride height at a glance.
EZ Tank Drain Valve: Tucked-away air tanks mean “out of sight, out of mind”—until maintenance leaves you crawling under the truck to crack open a manual petcock, spraying dirty tank water all over. We eliminate that headache. This electric valve replaces the manual drain with a simple push-button system routed straight to your Elite gauge panel. Just tap the button to purge tank condensation instantly while keeping your hands clean.
Tune Your Drop Speed: Our electric valve manifolds feature adjustable slow-flow mufflers. Just like turning down a stereo’s volume, you can manually adjust how fast your truck airs out—ensuring a passenger or kid never accidentally slams your oil pan or headers into the pavement.
C10 Custom Tank Options (Single 6-Gallon vs. Twin 3-Gallon): Space under a C10 bed gets crowded fast—especially with a relocated gas tank. Our standard 35-inch high-volume 6-gallon tank is ideal for bed mounting or tucking under the bed, typically in front of the rear bumper (which will require minor, simple brackets that you lay out).
Prefer a zero-clearance install? Our Twin 3-Gallon “Mini-Split” Tank Upgrade is available at checkout. These compact tanks are literally the length of your forearm with your fingers extended, allowing them to mount tucked inside the frame rails, behind the wheels, or split apart anywhere you choose. Mounting them is as simple as hanging a shelf in your garage: just fab two basic 90-degree brackets, drill, and bolt them to the frame. The $189.95 upgrade includes both tanks, the fittings to link them, and a second electric drain valve wired to your single dash switch so you can purge both tanks simultaneously with one touch.
What’s Included:
- C10 Vehicle-Specific Bracket Kit: Powder-coated front upper and lower brackets, paired with rear trailing arm brackets. Includes all necessary bracket-mounting hardware.
- Four Premium 2600-Series EZ AIRRIDE Airbags: Featuring a steel-braided waistband, a massive 600 PSI burst rating for unmatched pressure capacity, a razor-thin 2.8” compressed height, and a 12.5” extension for the ultimate range of usable stroke on your truck.
- Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank: High-capacity tank featuring a custom port configuration designed exclusively for this kit’s plumbing layout. (Note: Standard 6-gallon tank can be upgraded to our Twin 3-Gallon Mini-Split system at checkout).
- Elite Series 3/8″ Electric Valve Manifolds: Featuring individual 4-corner air isolation to completely eliminate air-transfer roll, complete with integrated slow-flow drop mufflers.
- 200 PSI High-Output Compressor: Features a 100% duty-cycle output, a 3/8″ stainless steel leader hose with a built-in check valve, and our exclusive anti-vibration “Sound Stabilizer” isolation mounting kit.
- The EZ Tank Drain Valve Kit: Includes our compact electric drain valve, brass DOT fittings, dedicated wire leads, and the push-button activation switch.
- Elite Gauge Faceplate & Twin Dual-Needle Glass Gauges: Crisp, white LED-backlit analog gauges packaged with a sleek, powder-coated black dash panel and a dedicated tank-drain switch. Shipped as separate component parts, ready to drop in and wire up directly inside your cab.
- Handheld 7-Button Switch Box: Ergonomic controller allowing for complete independent corner control, front-only lift/drop, rear-only lift/drop, and all-4 simultaneous lift and drop functionality.
- Complete Premium Plumb & Wire Pack: Includes 80 feet of 3/8″ DOT airline, 60 feet of 1/4″ gauge airline, 20 feet of 8-gauge UL-listed power wire, a 40-amp “Slow-Blow” integrated fuse, a clear diagnostic LED relay, a 165–200 PSI pressure switch, a dedicated tubing cutter, and high-performance AirTight sealant.
- “Spare Air” Roadside Relief Kit: Onboard air accessory package including a tank quick-connect, a 20-foot air coil hose, a 6″ air chuck, and a tire Schrader valve.
- Genuine DOT Brass Fitting Pack: A complete collection of premium, heavy-duty DOT-approved brass fittings for your bags, tank, manifolds, and gauges to ensure a reliable seal.
The Bottom Line:
- Not Just a Box of Parts: When you unbox your Elite Kit, you are getting a complete, fully synchronized air suspension system designed to work together specifically for your vehicle’s chassis.
- Zero Guesswork: Every fitting, line, and bracket is perfectly matched to fit your ride right out of the box—with no extra trips to the hardware store.
- Built to Cruise: Bolt it on, drop it low, and finally enjoy the smooth, dynamic ride quality your classic cruiser deserves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is everything I need actually included in this kit?
The short answer is yes—and then some. Because “everything” means different things to different builders, we don’t expect you to just take our word for it. Check out our thumbnail galleries for a direct, visual checklist of every single component you will receive.
This is a completely synchronized system.
600 PSI-Rated 2600# Airbags and vehicle-specific brackets with all mounting hardware.
3/8″ Ported Manifolds with the necessary DOT brass fittings and adjustable slow-flow drop mufflers.
7-Button Switch Box with an extended 10-foot wire harness and integrated key lockout.
Twin Dual-Needle Gauges housed in a powder-coated panel featuring a cutout for the tank drain button.
Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank custom-ported specifically for this kit’s layout.
100% Duty-Cycle 200 PSI Compressor featuring our anti-vibration Sound Stabilizer mounting kit.
We also include all the necessary plumbing, wiring, brass fittings, and other installation incidentals:
DOT Airline Combo: 60 feet of genuine DOT-approved 3/8″ airbag lines and plenty of 1/4″ DOT airline for the gauges.
Genuine DOT Brass Fitting Pack: A complete collection of push-to-connect brass fittings to ensure a secure, reliable connection from the tank to your bags and gauges.
Compressor Wiring Power Pack: A 165–200 PSI pressure switch with a 10-foot keyed ignition lead wire, 20 feet of 8-gauge UL power wire with a 40-amp Maxi fuse, and a clear diagnostic LED relay.
Tubing Cutter & Sealant: A dedicated tubing cutter for clean, square cuts and AirTight sealant.
“Spare Air” Roadside Relief Kit: Onboard air accessory package including a tank quick-connect, a 20-foot air coil hose, a 6″ air chuck, and a tire Schrader valve.
Aside from basic shop tools and elbow grease, everything else is in the box.
Are shocks included with this kit?
No. The engineering layout of the legendary C10 platform means you do not require a set of overpriced aftermarket shocks the other guys want to sell you.
When GM designed the C10 chassis, they mounted both the front and rear factory shock absorbers completely outside of the coil springs. Unlike classic cars where the shock runs right down the center of the spring, the C10 frame virtually cries out for an air ride conversion. The factory mounting geometry is already perfectly clear and optimized for an air spring right out of the box.
Because our premium 2600-Series airbags deliver a massive 12.5-inch extension with nearly 10 inches of uninhibited stroke, the bags themselves shoulder 98% of the work. Decades of outfitting hundreds of C10s prove that a massive stroke capacity requires far less air pressure to lift the truck, creating a naturally plush, cloud-like ride.
Because the air spring handles the heavy lifting, your truck only requires a basic, traditional gas shock to control simple body rebound.
In fact, running stiff aftermarket performance shocks or specialized “drop shocks” will constantly fight your air ride quality. Drop shocks are engineered for cut-down steel springs or static drop coilovers—they are physically too short for a true air system. If you bolt them up to a standard chassis, they will act as a mechanical restriction, choking your optimal lift height and preventing the truck from fully laying out. Furthermore, heavy-duty shocks utilize aggressive internal valving that violently resists the natural, dynamic movement of an airbag, creating a harsh, rigid ride.
Our Absolute Recommendation: You still 100% must run shocks to control suspension cycling. However, do not waste your hard-earned money on high-dollar dampers or drop shocks. If your current shocks are ancient, leaking, or say “Hi-Jacker” (or any other old-school helper air shock), immediately replace them. Simply head to your local auto parts store and pick up a standard, budget-friendly set of traditional factory-spec gas shocks. Let our synchronized air system do the work it was engineered to do.
A Note on the Ultimate 2% Custom Builds: The engineering data above applies to 98% of the standard C10 builds on the road today. However, if you are a fabricator who falls into the other 2%—meaning you are cutting out factory inner wheel wells, welding deep drop-pockets into your lower control arms to clear massive custom wheels, or dropping a heavy, supercharged big-block between the rails—your suspension cycle changes. Extreme custom modifications like drop-pockets alter the distance between your shock mounts, meaning you will need to measure your custom travel and source a custom-length shock to fit your specific fabrication work. For everyone else building a clean, classic cruiser on factory geometry, standard factory-spec gas shocks are the undisputed king of ride quality.
Do I need to buy aftermarket tubular control arms or drop spindles to run this kit?
No—and in most cases, you are actually better off sticking with your factory components right out of the gate. Many big-name brands and online salesmen will push a multi-thousand-dollar bill filled with tubular arms and drop spindles under the guise that they are “mandatory” for air ride. Based on our hands-on installation experience outfitting hundreds of trucks, here is why we design our kits to thrive on factory components, and how doing your air ride first saves you unnecessary headaches.
Factory Arms vs. Aftermarket Tubular Arms Our vehicle-specific lower brackets are engineered precisely to drop into the factory lower control arm spring pocket. However, because the C10 layout is so uniquely installer-friendly, our standard lower brackets should also drop right into 99% of the aftermarket tubular arms on the market.
Furthermore, unlike classic passenger cars, almost every reputable brand of aftermarket tubular lower arms for the C10 platform already comes with a lower shock mounting location tab welded directly to the arm. Because of this built-in geometry, you can simply mount your shock directly to the tubular arm’s tab without any custom fabrication. There is absolutely nothing wrong with freshening up your clean factory stamped arms with a new set of ball joints and a coat of paint, but if you choose to run aftermarket tubular arms, our kit is designed to adapt seamlessly.
The Physics of Drop Spindles (Catalog Specs vs. Real-World Clearances) Order-takers love pitching drop spindles because they promise a quick, extra 2 to 3 inches of drop. But they are selling catalog part numbers, not vehicle geometry, and they don’t know your specific truck. They don’t know your wheel diameter, your tire aspect ratio, or what is actually hanging underneath your chassis.
Here is the reality of a classic truck: an airbag system drops the entire chassis toward the earth. If you install drop spindles and an air ride kit together right out of the gate, you aren’t just lowering the body—you are dropping your mechanical vitals vulnerably closer to the concrete. If your truck features an oversized aftermarket oil pan, low-hanging exhaust headers, or custom exhaust pipes that sit 3 to 4 inches below the factory frame rail, those vital components will smash into the pavement long before your frame rails ever layout.
Our Absolute Recommendation: Build in stages. Install our air ride kit first on your factory spindles. For 98% of builders, our massive range of usable bag stroke will have your truck safely kissing the concrete and sitting exactly how you want.
Once the kit is installed, air the truck all the way down, crawl underneath with a tape measure, and check your clearances. If your oil pan and exhaust pipes still have ample room to breathe and you want to go even lower, then buy the drop spindles. Don’t risk cracking a custom oil pan on day one just to clear a catalog spec.
How difficult is this kit to install, and do I need to take it to a professional shop?
The Short Answer: If you can change brakes, route automotive power wire, and use basic shop tools, you have the right foundation for this install. Out of all the vehicle kits we sell, the 1963 through 1972 C10 and Suburban chassis is hands down the easiest of them all. There is absolutely zero welding required—the entire air suspension system is a direct bolt-on project you can easily knock out in your own garage over a weekend.
The Mechanical Breakdown
The Rear (100% Bolt-On): Relieve the factory spring pressure, slide the old coil springs out, and bolt our C10-specific brackets right up. The rear shock stays right in its stock factory position.
The Front (100% Bolt-On): Once the factory coil springs are safely uncompressed and removed, the airbag and bracket assembly bolts directly into place. The factory front shock remains completely unaltered in its stock position.
The Plumbing & Electrical
The rest of the kit is just clean routing:
Manifold Mounting & Plumbing: Once the manifolds are attached to the tank and the tank is mounted under the bed or in the bed, run your 3/8″ air lines from the manifolds to the airbags, then run your 1/4″ air lines from the manifolds up to your cab gauges.
Compressor Mounting: Securely mount your compressor near the tank, connect the leader hose to the tank, and run the 8-gauge power wire to the battery.
Relay & Power Wiring: Run the pressure switch lead wire up to your fuse panel for a keyed ignition power source, then connect the 4-pin relay to the pump, pressure switch, power wire, and ground.
7-Button Switch Box Wiring: Run the 10-foot switchbox extension cord from your bench seat out of the cab and back toward your tank setup. Snip and clip these wires to the manifold wire harnesses wherever they intersect.
DIY vs. Professional Shop
Classic car and truck specialty shops typically charge anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 in labor for a full air ride installation. The reality of a commercial shop means operating strictly on billable hours and fast lift turnover. Because plumbing and line routing are the most time-consuming parts of an air ride build—requiring patience to strategically route, tuck, and hide lines for a perfectly clean finish—critical details can easily get rushed under a tight shop schedule.
A fast-paced shop environment can mean missing the small things, like installing rubber protective grommets through frame holes, routing air lines completely clear of moving suspension components, or double-checking every single fitting. Furthermore, few commercial shops can afford to let a truck take up valuable lift space for a proper 24-hour overnight leak check or final clearance testing.
By taking your time in your own garage, you ensure every line and wire run is strategically hidden, secure, and protected. More importantly, you gain the priceless peace of mind that comes from knowing exactly how your system was installed, how every component works, and that it was done right.
Reviews
There are no reviews yet.