1958 Chevrolet Delray Air Ride Suspension Kit | Platinum Package
“The kit price includes free shipping to the lower 48.”
$2,395.00
We don’t believe in “one-size-fits-all” bracket setups or inferior, low-stroke towing helper bags designed for full-size pickups. Every vehicle platform we produce features proprietary brackets paired with our exclusive 2500-series airbags that deliver up to 8″ of true, usable stroke. Engineered to handle everything from stock small blocks to heavy, cast-iron big blocks, this setup gives you the ultimate balance of a slammed stance and uncompromised ride quality.
Platinum Series Kit
Engineered for stance and built for builders with a serious need for speed.
This kit is built specifically for guys who want fast action up and down at the push of a button. It is designed around that traditional switch-box style—where you hold a controller in your hand, hit a switch, and the car moves rapidly.
We keep it super simple: this is a dedicated, traditional front-and-back setup (front up/down, rear up/down). By focusing purely on high-pressure valves, you get maximum speed right where you want it.
To give you that rapid response, we use high-pressure 3/8″ ported one-way valves rated at 280 PSI. The second you hit the switch, those valves move a high volume of air to get the vehicle up and down quickly. Backed by our premium, 8-inch stroke 2500-series airbags, you get a highly responsive, fast-acting setup.
Kit Highlights:
Bolt-On Simplicity: Front and rear brackets are engineered to utilize your chassis’ existing mounting points or factory spring seats. No heavy fabrication is required for the standard installation, making it a true garage-friendly upgrade for classic builds.
Maximum Stroke Airbags: Engineered for extreme stance and structural integrity. Our custom bags compress down to a razor-thin 2.8″ to achieve a completely slammed profile, and extend to a massive 10.8″—delivering nearly 8 full inches of usable stroke and a 600 PSI burst rating for unmatched pressure capacity.
Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank: Forget standard 4-to-5 gallon setups that leave you waiting around. We include our exclusive, high-capacity 6+ gallon tank to give you maximum air volume, faster recovery times, and plenty of reserve for when you want to play with the switches.
High-Pressure 3/8″ Ported Valves: True 3/8″ ported one-way valves rated at 280 PSI for rapid, unrestricted air movement. Includes 3/8″ branch tee fitting with pre-inserted brass fitting for gauge bag pressure readout.
3-Button Switch-Box Controller: Traditional handheld controller featuring three buttons: front up/down, back up/down, and one center button for all up/down.
Heavy-Gauge Wire Package: Power your compressor reliably with 8-gauge UL-listed copper power wire, complete with an integrated fuse assembly to protect your electrical system right out of the box.
Spare Air Roadside Relief Package: Built for convenience and peace of mind. This package features a tank quick-connect and a 20-foot air coil hose with an air chuck, allowing you to easily air up a flat tire or use your onboard air anywhere around the vehicle.
Precision Plumbing Essentials: No hacked lines or tedious leaks. We pair our DOT brass air fittings with a dedicated tubing cutter for razor-sharp, square cuts and include high-performance airtight sealant to ensure a dependable, airtight seal.
What’s Included:
(4) Premium 2500-Series EZ AIRRIDE Airbags: Featuring a steel-braided waistband, a massive 600 PSI burst rating for unmatched pressure capacity, a razor-thin 2.8” compressed height, and a 10.8” extension for nearly 8 inches of usable stroke.
Complete Vehicle-Specific Bracket Kit: Heavy-duty, powder-coated front and rear brackets designed specifically for your chassis. Includes all necessary bracket-mounting hardware. (Note: As with all classic custom suspension builds, checking clearance around factory frame pockets during mock-up ensures long-term bag life).
Front Shock Relocation Pack: Includes custom-designed shock towers, shock absorbers, and heavy-duty lower shock mounting studs to cleanly reposition your shocks away from the bags.
Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank: High-capacity tank featuring a custom port configuration designed exclusively for this kit’s plumbing layout.
200 PSI Heavy-Duty Compressor: Features a 100% duty-cycle output, a built-in check valve, and our exclusive anti-vibration “Sound Stabilizer” isolation mounting kit.
High-Pressure 3/8″ Ported Valves: True 3/8″ ported one-way valves rated at 280 PSI for rapid, unrestricted air movement. Includes 3/8″ branch tee fitting with pre-inserted brass fitting for gauge bag pressure readout.
3-Button Switch-Box Controller: Traditional handheld controller featuring three buttons: front up/down, back up/down, and one center button for all up/down.
Dual Needle Air Pressure Gauge: 200 PSI gauge featuring stacked dual needles that indicate front bag pressure and rear bag pressure. Includes crisp white LED illumination and genuine brass fittings.
Builders Power Pack: Includes 20 feet of 8-gauge UL-listed power wire, a 40-amp “Slow-Blow” integrated fuse, a clear diagnostic LED relay, a 165–200 PSI pressure switch, a dedicated tubing cutter, and high-performance AirTight sealant.
“Spare Air” Roadside Relief Kit: Onboard air accessory package including a tank quick-connect, a 20-foot air coil hose, a 6″ air chuck, and a tire Schrader valve.
Genuine DOT Brass Fitting Pack: A complete collection of premium DOT-approved brass fittings for your bags, tank, and gauges to ensure a reliable seal.
The Bottom Line:
- Not Just a Box of Parts: When you unbox your Platinum Kit, you are getting a complete, fully synchronized air suspension system designed to work together specifically for your vehicle’s chassis.
- Zero Guesswork: Every fitting, line, and bracket is perfectly matched to fit your ride right out of the box—with no extra trips to the hardware store.
- Built to Cruise: Bolt it on, drop it low, and finally enjoy the smooth, dynamic ride quality your classic cruiser deserves.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is everything I need actually included in this kit?
The short answer is yes—and then some. Because “everything” means different things to different builders, we don’t expect you to just take our word for it. Check out our thumbnail galleries for a direct, visual checklist of every single component you will receive.
This is a completely synchronized system.
600 PSI-Rated Airbags and vehicle-specific brackets with all mounting hardware.
Front Shock Relocation Kit including both shocks, dust caps, lower shock studs, and upper frame-mounted shock towers.
(4) 3/8″ Ported High-Pressure Valves paired with custom branch tee fittings pre-tapped and fitted with a 1/4″ brass fitting.
3-Button Switch Box featuring an 8-ft four-wire jacketed extension.
Dual-Needle Gauge housed in a brushed aluminum bezel.
Exclusive 6+ Gallon Air Tank custom-ported specifically for this kit’s layout.
100% Duty-Cycle 200 PSI Compressor featuring our anti-vibration Sound Stabilizer mounting kit and a 3/8″ stainless steel leader hose with a built-in check valve.
We also include all the necessary plumbing, wiring, brass fittings, and other installation incidentals:
• DOT Airline Combo: 60 feet of genuine DOT-approved 3/8″ airbag lines and plenty of 1/4″ DOT airline for the gauges.
Genuine DOT Brass Fitting Pack: A complete collection of push-to-connect brass fittings to ensure a secure, reliable connection from the tank to your bags and gauges.
Compressor Wiring Power Pack: A 165–200 PSI pressure switch with a 10-foot keyed ignition lead wire, 20 feet of 8-gauge UL power wire with a 40-amp Maxi fuse, and a clear diagnostic LED relay.
Tubing Cutter & Sealant: A dedicated tubing cutter for clean, square cuts and AirTight sealant.
“Spare Air” Roadside Relief Kit: Onboard air accessory package including a tank quick-connect, a 20-foot air coil hose, a 6″ air chuck, and a tire Schrader valve.
Aside from basic shop tools and elbow grease, everything else is in the box.
Are rear shocks included with this kit?
Our complete air ride kits do include the front shock relocation kit—which is mandatory on most classic GM cars because the factory front shock runs directly through the inside of the coil spring where your new airbag needs to sit.
But for the rear, because the factory shock mounts completely on the outside of the spring, it stays right where it is. That is why we do not include rear shocks, and it’s designed to save you money.
Because our premium rear airbags deliver an unheard-of 8 inches of usable stroke, the bags themselves shoulder 98% of the work. The more stroke a bag has, the less air pressure it takes to lift the vehicle, creating a naturally smooth ride. Because the airbag is doing all the heavy lifting, your classic cruiser only needs an inexpensive, basic gas shock to control body rebound.
In fact, buying expensive, heavy-duty performance shocks will actually take away from your ride quality because those stiff shocks will constantly fight against the dynamic movement of the airbags.
Our Recommendation: If your current rear shocks are ancient, leaking, or say “Hi-Jacker” (or any other type of air shock) on them, definitely replace them. But don’t waste your hard-earned money on high-dollar replacements—just swap them out for a standard, budget-friendly set of traditional gas shocks from your local auto parts store, and let our synchronized air system do the rest. And yes, to be completely clear: you still 100% must run a rear shock on your air ride system.
Do I need to buy aftermarket tubular control arms or drop spindles to run this kit?
No—and in most cases, you are actually better off sticking with your factory components.
Many big-name brands and online salesmen will push a $7,000 bill filled with tubular A-arms and drop spindles under the guise that they are “mandatory” for air ride. Based on our 12+ years of hands-on installation experience, here is our take on why we design our kits around your factory components, and why doing your air ride first will save you massive headaches:
Factory Arms vs. Aftermarket Tubular Arms
Our Platinum Kit vehicle-specific brackets are engineered precisely to drop into the factory lower control arm spring pocket. If you swap to an aftermarket tubular arm, the stamped geometry of the pocket changes, and the standard lower brackets typically won’t seat correctly without modification.
Furthermore, our shop experience has shown that most standard aftermarket tubular arms lack an integrated lower shock mounting tab in the necessary position. Because our complete air ride kit includes the front shock relocation kit, you must mount a heavy-duty lower shock stud to the arm.
- With Factory Stamped Arms: The factory arm features a flat, rigid steel vertical wall. You simply drill a clean hole, bolt the high-grade shock stud in, and the lower installation is complete.
- With Tubular Arms: Mechanically, drilling a straight bolt through a hollow, round tube can risk collapsing the tube walls under load. To install a shock stud safely on round tubing, a builder generally has to grind down the aftermarket finish, weld custom reinforcement tabs, or install an internal DOM steel sleeve inside the arm.
Our Recommendation: Save your money. There is absolutely nothing wrong with freshening up your factory arms with a fresh set of ball joints and a coat of paint—nobody sees them anyway, and they will not alter the premium ride quality of our system.
(Note: If you already purchased aftermarket tubular arms, just let us know in the order comments or call us before ordering. We can custom-build drop-in brackets to adapt to your specific arms at no extra charge).
The Physics of Drop Spindles (Catalog Specs vs. Real-World Clearances)
Order-takers love pitching drop spindles because they promise a quick, extra 2 to 3 inches of drop. But they are selling catalog part numbers, not vehicle geometry, and they don’t know your specific car. They don’t know your wheel diameter, your tire aspect ratio, or what’s actually hanging underneath your chassis.
Here is the reality of a classic cruiser: an airbag system drops the entire chassis toward the earth. If you install drop spindles and an air ride kit together right out of the gate, you aren’t just lowering the body—you are dropping your mechanical vitals dangerously closer to the concrete.
If your car features an oversized aftermarket oil pan, low-hanging exhaust headers, or custom exhaust pipes that sit 3 to 4 inches below the factory frame rail, those vital components will smash into the pavement long before your frame rails ever layout.
Our Recommendation: Build in stages. Install our air ride kit first on your factory spindles. For 95% of builders, our 8 inches of usable bag stroke will have your cruiser safely kissing the concrete and sitting exactly how you want.
Once the kit is installed, air the car all the way down, crawl underneath with a tape measure, and check your clearances. If your oil pan and exhaust pipes still have ample room to breathe and you want to go even lower, then buy the drop spindles. Don’t risk cracking a custom oil pan on day one just to clear a catalog spec.
How difficult is this kit to install, and do I need to take it to a professional shop?
The short answer: If you can change brakes, route automotive power wire, swap factory shocks, and use basic shop tools, you have the right foundation for this install. The air suspension system itself is bolt-on, but the front shock relocation kit requires welding.
The Mechanical Breakdown:
- The Rear: Completely bolt-on. Relieve factory spring pressure, slide them out, and bolt our vehicle-specific brackets right up. The rear shock stays in its stock position.
- The Front: The bag and bracket assembly is a direct bolt-on as well—once the factory coil springs are safely uncompressed and removed. Since many vintage front upper frame pocket tolerances vary, the installer must verify ample bag clearance through the full range of travel: aired-out, ride height, and fully lifted.
The Welding Required: Because the new airbags occupy the factory spring and shock pockets, you will discard the stock front shocks. You will install our proprietary shocks by welding our custom shock towers directly to the frame rail. This requires a solid level of experience with structural welding and fabrication. If you or a buddy have those skills, you can most likely knock out the fabrication and main installation in your garage over a solid 2 to 3 days.
The rest of the kit is just clean routing:
Valve Mounting & Plumbing: Once the four 280 PSI valve assemblies are paired together using our provided pre-tapped brass branch tee fittings, attach them to the 6+ gallon custom-ported air tank. Once the tank is mounted in the trunk, run your 3/8″ main lines from the valves to the airbags, then run your 1/4″ air lines from the valves to your dual-needle dash gauge panel.
Compressor Mounting: Securely mount your compressor in the trunk, connect the leader hose to the tank, and run the power wire to the battery.
Relay & Power Wiring: Run the pressure switch lead trigger wire up to your fuse panel for a keyed ignition power source, then connect the 4-pin relay to the pump, pressure switch, power wire, and ground.
3-Button Switch Box Wiring: Connect the four wires from the end of the 3-button switch box controller to the positive terminal on each valve solenoid by using our 8-ft provided jacketed four wire extension.
DIY vs. Professional Shop:
Shops typically charge anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500 in labor for a full air ride install. The reality of a commercial shop means operating on billable hours and lift turnover. Because plumbing and line routing are the most time-consuming parts of an air ride build—requiring patience to strategically route, tuck, and hide lines for a perfectly clean finish—critical details can easily get rushed under a tight schedule.
A fast-paced shop environment can mean missing the small things, like installing rubber protective grommets through frame holes, routing air lines completely clear of moving suspension components, or double-checking every single fitting. Furthermore, few commercial shops can afford to let a vehicle take up valuable lift space for a proper 24-hour overnight leak check or final clearance testing. By taking your time in your own garage, you ensure every line and wire run is strategically hidden and secure. More importantly, you gain peace of mind that comes from knowing exactly how your system was installed, how every component was assembled, and that it was done right.