Introducing our exclusive EZ AIRRIDE™ airbags & brackets, specially designed for all 1958-1964 X Frame cars, wagons & El Caminos. Our 2500 series airbags offer more stroke than traditional 2500 series airbags, compressing down to 2.8 inches and extending to 10.5 inches, providing useable stroke of nearly 8 inches. This increased stroke results in lower pressure within the bags, ultimately delivering a more dynamic ride quality. Whether you’re planning an LS swap, have a 454 big block engine, or want to fit 20″ rims on your ride, our airbags can handle it all. Each 2500 series airbag has a max load rating of 2,096 lbs. @ 100 psi. Whether you’re laying it on the lawn at a car show, preventing your pipes or oil pan from scraping along the driveway, or scrubbing the tires on turns due to extra passenger weight, the Classic Plus Kit ensures optimal clearance and performance.
EASE OF INSTALLATION OF THE BAGS & BRACKETS: Simplify your air ride installation with our 1958-1964 X Frame brackets – the easiest setup you’ll find. Our airbag brackets feature powder-coated finishes to enhance durability and provide added protection. All necessary airbag/bracket hardware, including nuts, bolts, washers and the required 7/16″ all-thread is included. No need to break out the heavy-duty tools-just grab your socket set and drill and you’ll be good to go.
STARTING WITH THE REAR: Simply attach the lower bracket to your trailing arm and secure it to the factory E-brake hole. The upper bag bracket is as easy to install; just attach it to the frame and bolt the outer stem to the existing bump stop—no drilling necessary. Additionally, we’ve made it easier to run your airline with laser-cut mouse holes in the upper bracket, allowing you to pass your airline through without drilling extra holes in your frame.
FRONT BRACKETS: The front lower plate effortlessly bolts onto the factory lower control arm. By utilizing the two bump stop holes after removing the bump stop, you could complete the installation without any drilling. If you opt to bolt the outer two holes on the plate to the lower arm, then drilling becomes necessary. The upper bag bracket mounts into the upper frame pocket and bolts into the existing shock mount hole. So, in theory, if you had chrome-plated lower arms and preferred not to drill the outer plate holes at all, there would be no drilling needed, whatsoever, for the bags & brackets. If you’re using front aftermarket tubular control arms, just give us a heads up and we’ll provide custom drop-in style brackets to fit seamlessly at no extra charge.
The X-Frame Front Shock Kit: Is engineered to provide the essential dampening needed for all 1958–1964 X-Frame Cars, Station Wagons, and El Caminos with aftermarket air suspension. When you replace your factory coil springs with air bags, the original shock—which sits vertically inside the coil—is permanently removed. Because the new mounting position is on the side of the control arm rather than through the center, a factory-style shock cannot be reused. Our kit includes specialized shocks designed for this specific exterior angle, ensuring that when you zip over a set of railroad tracks or catch an unexpected pothole, the shock dampens the bounce instantly for a smooth, controlled ride.
Lower Mount: The stainless steel shock studs bolt directly to your factory lower control arms to secure the bottom of the shock. Since the 1958-1964 X-Frame is a front-steer vehicle, the shock will be positioned on the backside of the control arm (facing the firewall) for proper clearance.
Upper Mount: These shock towers are designed to be permanently fixed to the upper frame via welding. While our X-frame shock brackets include placement holes that—in theory—could be used for bolting, we strongly advise filling these holes with welds for a much stronger bond and a professional finish. While it is technically possible to bolt these brackets using the provided placement holes, we do not recommend it. A bolt-on installation requires drilling multiple holes through your iconic Impala frame, which can compromise the structural integrity and aesthetic of the chassis. For a permanent, high-strength bond and a show-quality finish, welding is the only industry-recommended method.
Aftermarket Tubular Control Arms: If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket tubular lower control arms- or if you are planning to install them- please be aware that the lower shock stud installation will require additional fabrication. While the stainless steel studs are a direct bolt-on for factory stamped-steel arms, tubular arms lack the necessary flat mounting surface and internal support. Common Installation Methods for Tubular Arms would involve drilling a hole through the tubular arm and inserting a DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) steel sleeve of the correct size to support the lower stud, which must then be welded in place. Alternatively, you can fabricate mounting tabs on the underside of the tubular arm to secure the shock stud.
Pro Tip – Consider Refurbishing Factory Arms: If you haven’t purchased aftermarket arms yet, we highly recommend refurbishing your original factory arms. A fresh coat of paint and new ball joints will provide a cleaner, simpler installation. This approach saves you from the extra labor of grinding off new powder coating and performing structural welding on a brand-new set of arms—potentially saving you hundreds of dollars in shop labor. However, if your primary goal is the “show factor,” those tubular arms will certainly look impressive to the admirers who happen to be lying on the ground looking under your vehicle at a car show.
Final Installation Note – Measure Twice, Weld Once: Because every custom build is unique, a “dry fit” mockup is essential before final welding. Variations in rim height, wheel backspacing, aftermarket spindles, and upgraded brake kits can all influence the exact placement of your shock absorbers. It is essential to check your steering sweep from lock-to-lock to ensure no part of the wheel or braking system interferes with the shock.
To ensure a successful front shock installation, we recommend the following pro-tips: Cycle the Suspension with a floor jack to cycle your suspension through its full range of motion. Turn the wheels lock-to-lock to confirm there is no interference with the shock at any steering angle. Check Full Compression – when the vehicle is fully “aired out” (laid down), the shock should not bottom out. We recommend maintaining at least a quarter-inch gap at full compression to prevent internal damage or mount failure. Lastly always do a final Clearance Check. Ensure your shock position provides a safe distance from factory sway bars, brake lines, and oversized wheels. If you are a novice builder, consulting with a professional shop or a certified welder is highly advisable to ensure your shock relocation is safe, functional, and built to last.
REAR SHOCKS: Let’s talk about why you won’t find rear shocks in our kits. It isn’t an oversight—it’s by design. Our air springs are engineered to work in harmony with a standard factory gas shock. While other companies push high-end, name-brand shocks as ‘essential,’ the reality is that the quality and long stroke of our airbags handle the vehicle’s weight and support.
The shock has one job: to act as a dampener for the airbag. It’s there to smooth things out when you’re zipping over railroad tracks at 45 mph or hitting an unexpected pothole. If a shock is too stiff or ‘heavy-duty,’ it actually interferes with the air spring’s ability to absorb impact. A robust, expensive shock will fight the bag, robbing you of that cloud-like ride quality and even lessening your dynamic lift.
If your current rear shocks look like relics from Montgomery Ward, are spewing oil, or were installed back in high school auto shop (we’re looking at you, 70s-era Hijackers), it’s time for an upgrade. But don’t break the bank. Visit your local auto parts store and grab the most affordable, basic stock gas shock available. You’ll get a better ride, better lift, and you can put that $300+ savings right back into your pocket where it belongs. BUILDER’S TIP: Avoid high-dollar “performance” drop shocks—they are far too restrictive for a superior, long-stroke air spring like our EZ Air Ride bag. They act like a limit strap, fighting your airbags and stealing your lift. For the best ride quality and maximum height, a cheap, stock gas shock from your local auto parts store is actually the superior choice.
THE AIR TANK : Our exclusive tanks have a capacity of just over 6 gallons. They measure approximately 35″– in length, 7.25″- in diameter, and stand about 8.50″- tall. The front features two 1/2″ bungs for connecting to the manifolds, while each end of the tank has 3/8″ bungs for adapting to one or more compressors. Additionally, there are two 1/4″ bungs on the rear of the tank for the PSI switch and a quick connect for roadside air/train horn. Lastly, a 1/4″ bung on the bottom of the tank for easy drainage.