Going the Distance | 10ft Integrated Harness
We’ve eliminated the need for short power cords and expensive adapters by building this box with a high-quality 10-foot integrated wiring harness. This provides plenty of reach to route from your front seat, under the carpet, and all the way back to your manifold in the trunk, or under the bed of a C10 and back to the chassis-mounted manifolds without the need for extra plugs, adapters, or expensive extensions.

The Security Evolution
Take total control of who operates your air ride when you step away from your classic. Our EZ Air 7-Switch Box features a professional Keyed Lockout Switch integrated into the base, providing a physical “Kill Switch” for your entire air management system. One turn of the key ensures your classic stays exactly where you set it—preventing unauthorized use whether it’s a kid at a car show, a valet, or a shop tech.

Chassis-Lock Security
They say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. When your switch box is locked and your vehicle is laying frame, it effectively becomes a 4,000-pound paperweight. If they can’t lift it, they can’t steer it—making it virtually impossible for an unauthorized user to roll or tow your classic while it’s parked in a public place.

Responsive Reliability
Built for those who just want a simple direct connection to their air management system—meaning no misconnects or disconnects with Bluetooth, no buggy apps, and no self-leveling computers to fail. This is your physical link to your air ride control. It’s engineered to survive the high-cycle demands of daily cruising and the show circuit, delivering the cleanest and most secure hardwired setup on the market today.

Visual Diagnostics: If you’ve ever spent an afternoon with a multimeter trying to figure out why your compressor won’t kick on, you know the “Black Hole” effect of standard relays. You’re left guessing if the relay clicked, if the trigger wire is dead, or if the unit itself has failed.

We designed this relay to end that frustration by providing a clear line of sight into your system’s status, allowing you to diagnose an issue in seconds instead of hours. Our Clearview diagnostic relays are designed to eliminate the guesswork; featuring a transparent (ice cube) housing and a built-in green LED status indicator, you get instant visual feedback the moment your switch is flipped.

• Green Light ON: Your trigger signal is reaching the relay.

• Green Light OFF: Check your switch, fuse, or wiring.

Heavy-Duty Pressure Switch Protection: We didn’t just stop at the LED. In an air ride system, your pressure switch is the brains of the operation, but it’s also the most vulnerable component. Constant cycling of the compressor and temperature changes naturally produce moisture in the tank; over time, that moisture can disrupt a pressure switch, leading to erratic behavior or a compressor that won’t cycle on when you need it most.

We protect your investment at the source. Our Relay and Plug-In Harness handles the heavy electrical load by utilizing 12-gauge tinned copper heavy-duty wire for the power source lead and the compressor lead. This thick-gauge wiring creates a high-conductivity “buffer” that takes the high-amperage strain off the internal contacts of your pressure switch to help ensure long-term reliability.

• 12-Inch Extended Leads: Most generic pigtails only provide 5 or 6 inches of wire, which barely clears the relay housing. This forces your butt connectors too close to the relay, concentrating heat in a tiny area and making it impossible to tuck your harness for a clean look. We provide 12-inch leads to give you the “slack” needed for better thermal dissipation and a professional, stress-free installation that stays away from the mounting point.

• 12-Gauge Tinned Copper (UL 1015) : We use heavy-duty 12-gauge tinned copper wire for the main power circuits (Pins 30 & 87). This ensures maximum current flow to your compressors while minimizing resistance heat and protecting against voltage drop.

• 16-Gauge Trigger Wires (UL 1015): While many generic kits use thinner 18-gauge CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) wire – not just for the trigger, but for the main power leads – that thinner, cheaper wire is highly prone to overheating under load. We utilize 16-gauge tinned copper for our trigger wires (Pins 85 and 86) to ensure a stable, reliable signal that handles the high-temperature environment of a custom automotive build without compromise.

• Directional Color Coding: Simplifies installation with Red (Power), Gray (Compressor), Black (Ground), and White (Pressure Switch Trigger). No guesswork, no “rainbow” wiring.

Specs:

• Rating: 30/40 Amp 12V DC

• Configuration: 4-Pin SPST (Single Pole Single Throw)

• Includes: (2) Clear LED Relays and (2) 12″ Heavy-Duty Pigtail Harnesses

Behind the Scenes: The Anatomy of a High-Performance Relay 

For the builders who want the technical details, here is why we chose these specific components to protect your air system.

1. The Relay as the “Electrical Shield”

The pressure switch is the brain of your system, but it isn’t built to handle the “muscle.” Without a relay, the heavy amperage load of a compressor flows directly through the tiny, delicate contacts inside your pressure switch. This leads to arcing, heat-damage, and eventually, a switch that welds shut. Our relay acts as a buffer. The pressure switch sends a tiny one amp trigger signal, and the relay takes the heavy electrical hit so your switch doesn’t have to.

2. Eliminating Resistance Heat

Electricity is like water—if you try to shove a firehose worth of volume through a drinking straw (like the thin 18-gauge wire found in cheap kits), you get resistance. In an electrical system, resistance equals heat. Thin wire can get hot enough to melt relay sockets and fuse holders. We utilize 12-gauge heavy-duty wire for the power and compressor leads to ensure a wide-open path for electricity, keeping the system cool and your voltage high.

3. The Tinned Copper Advantage

In the air suspension world, moisture is a constant. Standard copper wire is prone to “wicking” moisture, which leads to the “green crust” (oxidation) that destroys conductivity. We use Tinned Copper, which is high-grade copper coated in a protective layer of tin. This ensures your leads remain corrosion-resistant and highly conductive for years, even in high-moisture environments.

Don’t Let a Preventative Maintenance Step Sabotage an Expensive Build:
It’s a common oversight, but an air tank is like a living thing—if you don’t take care of it, the whole system suffers. It’s not just about your tank rusting out from the inside. When moisture sits, it travels. It gums up your expensive manifold valves, fries your pressure switches, and compromises your pressure sensors and gauges. The EZ AIRRIDE electric tank drain gives you the moisture control needed to safeguard your components from the harmful effects of internal tank moisture.

The 1/4″ Performance Advantage:
While you might find undersized, restrictive drain valves on the market, we specifically engineered our valve with a 1/4″ NPT port. This matches the standard bottom ports found on most high-quality air tanks, meaning it threads in directly with a 1/4″ close nipple without needing extra adapters or reducers. But it’s not just about the fit—it’s about the flow. Because our valve features a wider 1/4″ orifice, it clears out moisture and heavy sediment harder and faster than the restrictive, small-bore alternatives found elsewhere. Tank “gunk” and scale are inevitable, but our larger opening provides the extra clearance needed to blast that debris completely through the valve and out onto the ground—rather than letting it travel internally through your expensive air ride system.

High-Frequency Use Requires High-Volume Drainage:
Every time you hit your switches—whether you’re airing up for a cruise or showing off at a meet—your compressors work overtime to refill the tank. That constant cycle of airflow sends hot, compressed air into your tank, where it cools and creates the condensation that builds up fast. In humid climates or when the temperature drops, this happens even quicker. Our 1/4″ ported valve allows water and sediment to exit the tank with a high-volume purge. Whether you have a 3-gallon or a 10-gallon tank, you want that moisture out now, not later.

Ditch the Manual Routine:
Why lay on your back in a trunk or crawl under a truck with a rag in one hand and a wrench in the other, spraying murky water everywhere? Consider that chore retired.

Drain at the Touch of a Button:
Maintenance should be EZ. Strategically place our trigger button anywhere—your dash, your glove box, or a hidden console. Simply tap the button and let the system do the work.

EZ Tech Talk: Drains vs. Traps:

We get asked all the time: “Why a tank drain instead of a water trap?” The answer is simple physics.

• The Cooling Gap
  Compressed air leaves your compressor scorching hot. At those temperatures, moisture stays in a vapor state—an invisible gas. A water trap can only catch liquid droplets; it cannot catch steam. If the air hasn’t had roughly 36 to 48 inches of line to cool down, that moisture “ghosts” right through the water trap as hot steam. It only turns back into liquid water after it hits the cool walls of your tank. A trap placed too early in the system is often missing half the problem.
• The “Soda Vending Machine” Look
  To catch every drop with traps alone, you’d need a maze of glass bowls and extra fittings both before and after the tank. This turns your clean trunk setup into a “soda vending machine” look with extra leak points to manage and multiple bottles to drain manually. It adds clutter where you want a clean, professional build.
• The Purge Advantage
  Physics is on our side. Moisture naturally settles at the lowest point of your tank. With the EZ AIRRIDE Tank Drain, you aren’t trying to catch steam; you are blasting out the liquid that has already settled. By using a 1/4″ NPT bottom-port electric drain, you are attacking the problem where it actually lives. One push of a button clears the tank instantly, keeping your setup minimal, your flow high, and your system moisture-managed.

Installation Tip:

The EZ AIRRIDE tank valve is a direct fit for our 6-Gallon tanks because our port is strategically placed far enough away from the mounting leg for a zero-interference installation. We’ve designed our valve with the port on top so you can essentially hand-tighten the entire valve body clockwise directly to the tank itself using our included 1/4″ close nipple.

Mounting on your own tank?
Keep in mind the tank valve itself is approximately the size of a Duracell C battery. You will need to make sure you have at least 3 inches of clearance around your port to successfully spin the tank drain onto the bottom of your tank.

Custom Clearance Solutions:
If your drain port is located directly next to or in-line with your tank’s mounting legs, no worries—you’ll simply need to swap out our included close nipple for either a 1/4″ NPT 90° elbow or a straight fitting to remote mount the valve a few inches away.  You will also need an additional 1/4″ NPT fitting to adapt to the tank valve, which will then be daisy chained- with a 1/4″ air hose from the tank to the valve.  Just keep the valve as close to the tank as possible for the best results.

The Universal Front Shock Kit is engineered to provide the essential dampening needed for any classic car or truck equipped with aftermarket air suspension. When you replace your factory coil springs with air bags, the original shock—which sits vertically inside the coil—is permanently removed. Because the new mounting position is on the side of the control arm rather than through the center, a factory-style shock cannot be reused. Our kit includes specialized shocks designed for this specific exterior angle, ensuring that when you zip over a set of railroad tracks or catch an unexpected pothole, the shock dampens the bounce instantly for a smooth, controlled ride.

What’s in the Box:

• (2) Premium Shock Absorbers with Dust Covers
• (2) Universal Weld-on Steel Upper Shock Towers
• (2) High-Tensile Stainless Steel Lower Control Arm Studs
• All necessary mounting hardware

Installation Overview:

• Lower Mount: The stainless steel studs bolt directly to your factory lower control arms to secure the bottom of the shock.
• Upper Mount: These universal towers are designed to be permanently fixed to the upper frame via welding. For a permanent, high-strength bond and a show-quality finish, welding is the only industry-recommended method.

Pro Installer Tech: Front vs. Rear Steer Layouts
The advice provided is relevant for the majority of vintage vehicles, but there are critical differences in shock placement depending on your vehicle’s steering geometry:

• Front Steer Models (Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Caprice, etc.): These vehicles feature steering components positioned in front of the wheels. This typically leaves ample clearance to mount the shock on the backside of the control arm (facing the firewall).
• Rear Steer Models (1958–1970 Cadillac & Similar): On these chassis, the steering components are located behind the wheels. This leaves very little room behind the arm. Professional builders often follow the approach taken by Cadillac engineers in the late 1950s and opt to mount the shock on the front side of the control arm (facing the bumper).

Important: Aftermarket Tubular Control Arms

If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket tubular lower control arms, please be aware that the lower shock stud installation will require additional fabrication. While the stainless steel studs are a direct bolt-on for factory stamped-steel arms, tubular arms lack the necessary flat mounting surface and internal support.

• Fabrication Methods: This typically involves drilling through the tubular arm and inserting a DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) steel sleeve to support the lower stud, or fabricating custom mounting tabs on the underside of the arm.
• Pro Tip: If you haven’t purchased aftermarket arms yet, we highly recommend refurbishing your original factory arms with fresh paint and new ball joints. This simplifies the install, avoids the need to grind off new powder coating, and can save you hundreds of dollars in shop labor.

Final Installation Note: Measure Twice, Weld Once

Because every custom build is unique, a “dry fit” mockup is essential before final welding. Variations in rim height, wheel backspacing, aftermarket spindles, and upgraded brake kits can all influence the exact placement of your shock absorbers. It is essential to check your steering sweep from lock-to-lock to ensure no part of the wheel or braking system interferes with the shock.

To ensure a successful installation, we recommend the following pro-tips:

• Cycle the Suspension: Use a floor jack to cycle your suspension through its full range of motion. Turn the wheels lock-to-lock to confirm there is no interference with the shock at any steering angle.
• Check Full Compression: When the vehicle is fully “aired out” (laid down), the shock should not bottom out. We recommend maintaining at least a quarter-inch gap at full compression to prevent internal damage or mount failure.
• Clearance Check: Ensure your shock position provides a safe distance from factory sway bars, brake lines, and oversized wheels.

If you are a novice builder, consulting with a professional shop or a certified welder is highly advisable to ensure your shock relocation is safe, functional, and built to last.

The Precision Solution for Tight Factory Spring Pockets: Our new 2400 Series “Slim-Fit” triple convoluted air spring is the high-performance alternative for builds where every fraction of an inch counts. Engineered with a lean 5.0″ uninflated diameter that expands to a maximum of only 5.5″, this bag is designed to significantly minimize or eliminate the need for any frame cutting or modification in many classic factory spring pockets.

Is the 2400 Series Right for Your Build?

• Maximum Frame Clearance: If you are looking to avoid the trimming or cutting typically required by standard 6″ or 7″ bags, this 5.5″ maximum expansion footprint offers the breathing room you need for a more straightforward installation.
• Control Arm Optimized: Unlike “long-travel” bags designed only for straight axles, the 2400 Series is engineered specifically for the pivoting motion of classic control arms. Its 6″ stroke provides the perfect balance of lift and stability, staying composed through the suspension’s natural arc.
• Heavy-Duty Performance: Don’t let the slim profile fool you. With a massive 600 PSI burst rating, this bag is built for the long haul.
• 2,000lb Load Capacity: Rated for 2,000 lbs at 100 PSI, giving you the strength needed for full-size classics while maintaining a smooth, responsive ride.
• Full 6″ Stroke: Delivers a generous range of motion (from 4.0″ compressed to 10.0″ extended) to give you the “lay-out” look and the lift you need to cruise.

Important: Clearance & Fitment Responsibility
While the 2400 Series is our most compact high-pressure bag, proper fitment remains the installer’s responsibility. Because every vintage frame, spring pocket, and custom bracket is unique:

• Three-Stage Clearance Check: Proper fitment must be verified at three critical stages: Fully Compressed (Slammed), Normal Ride Height, and Fully Extended (Lifted).
• The “Hand-Sweep” Test: Throughout the entire suspension cycle—and especially at full steering lock—you must maintain a visible safety gap around the entire circumference of the bag. You should be able to freely sweep your hand around the bag at every stage of travel without it contacting the frame or any sharp edges.
• Zero-Contact Policy: Any contact between the rubber and a metal surface will lead to premature failure. If the clearance is tight at any point in the suspension’s motion, additional trimming or adjustment is required before operating the vehicle.