Pressure Switch: Wired Simplified | Quick-Fix Diagnostics.
Easy Air Ride 165 – 200 PSI Pressure Switch is theoretically the most intricate component of any onboard air system. Think of it simply as the brain of the operation.
The Specs
Our pressure switch features dual five-inch integrated Lead Wires. These wires are non-polar, meaning it doesn’t matter which wire you use for your ground or your trigger—making your installation fast and foolproof. To ensure long-term durability, the lower body of the switch and the wire entry points are encased in a protective rubberized coating. This provides a rugged barrier against road grime and moisture, making it the perfect choice for mounting your air tank under the bed of a truck or anywhere else exposed to the elements.
How it Operates
The switch is designed to mount directly to your air tank, threading into any 1/4 inch NPT orifice. Its job is simple but vital: when your tank pressure drops to 165 PSI, the switch wakes up and triggers your compressors. Once the tank reaches a solid 200 PSI, the pressure switch signals them to shut down.
The 1-2-3 Easy Install
Step One: Take either wire from the switch and connect it to a solid, clean chassis ground. For the best connection, make sure you have direct metal-to-metal contact.
Step Two: Take the remaining wire and run it to terminal 86 on your relay. Since this switch is non-polar, it doesn’t matter which wire you choose for which job—one is your ground, and one is your trigger.
Step Three: For maximum performance, connect your relay to a true ignition source—like your wiper motor or fuse box ignition circuit. You want a source that is only hot when the key is in the run position. For the best results and to ensure your compressor gets full amperage, always have the engine running while the system is pumping. This protects your battery and keeps your compressor running cool and efficient.
The Vital Role of the Relay
It is imperative to understand that while the switch is the brain, it is not the muscle. These poor switches get ridden hard and put away wet—literally. They are stuck in a dark, damp tank and expected to work every time and all the time. But as vital as this switch is, it’s weak. It can only handle a tiny bit of power. Your compressor is the muscle—it’s hungry, and it wants to pull 20+ amps of juice. You should never wire a compressor directly to the switch without a – relay.
The Protection
As in a game of chess, you have the King that protects the Queen; the King (the Relay) protects the Queen (the Pressure Switch). When the pressure switch says “Turn on,” it sends a tiny signal to the relay. The relay then “closes the gate” and lets the heavy power flow directly from the battery to the compressor
The Safety
Without the relay, you are forcing all that heavy power through your pressure switch and your ignition. This could create a melting hazard and lead to a total system failure.
Pro-Tips from the Shop
Over the years, we’ve learned a few tricks to prolong the life of the switch:
The Velocity Effect: Think about this—every time you hit a switch, you are creating a high-speed rush of air inside that tank. If there is any standing water in the bottom, that velocity acts like a vacuum, pulling moisture up the tank walls and washing your pressure switch. Over time, that constant misting will eventually corrode the internals of the switch, causing mixed signals or a compressor that runs sporadically or doesn’t run at all.
The Elite Offset: If you’re running the switch with one of our Elite Kits, our manifolds have auxiliary ports. You can purchase an optional 1/8″ Female NPT by 3/8″ Male NPT brass reducer and thread the pressure switch into this port. This keeps the switch a few more inches away from the tank walls and out of the splash zone.
The 90° Hack: If you’re mounting directly to a tank on our Classic kits, consider picking up a 90° Brass Street Elbow. That simple turn keeps direct moisture from splashing into the switch sensor.
The Glove Box Insurance: These are electronic components. Even the best ones can wear out in harsh conditions inside a dark cave that accumulates moisture. Keep a spare switch in your glove box. It’s a few-minute fix that will keep those compressors running happily for a long time.
Lastly
The EZ Tank Drain, if you don’t already have one, pick up our EZ Tank Drain Valve. No onboard air system should be without our valve, replacing that old-school butterfly petcock that you have to literally drain with a rag in one hand, a wrench in the other, and a catch pan underneath to prevent high-pressure moisture from spraying all over the place.