EZ AIRRIDE Electric Tank Drain Kit
The Tank-Tap Purge: 1/4 Inch NPT High-Flow (250 PSI)
Handles up to 250 PSI with ease. Features an Inlet Port securing to the bottom of your air tank and an Outlet Port for high-velocity moisture evacuation, controlled via a 3-way momentary switch. Purge your system without crawling under the chassis or cracking a manual petcock.
BEFORE YOU INSTALL
For New System Installs: Moisture is a physical reality—any time you compress air, water forms inside your tank. This valve lets you easily purge that moisture before it accumulates and creates a “vacuum effect”—where standing water is pulled out of the tank and blasted through your manifolds, into pressure sensors, or any other internal air suspension components. It prolongs the life of your entire investment.
For Existing or Older Systems: If your current compressor has stopped running, or is running sporadically and won’t turn off, your pressure switch or sensor is most likely shot due to built-up moisture. Adding this high-flow valve now allows you to easily flush that water out—adding a critical layer of protection that shields your new pressure switch, sensitive manifolds, and other air ride components from here on out.
1-2-3 EZ Install Steps
Step 1: Valve to Tank Assembly
CRITICAL: Sealant Rules
The Naked Thread Rule: Leave the first two threads of the brass nipple completely bare. No tape, no liquid. If sealant covers these, metal compression will shear it off and choke the valve internals.
The Clockwise Wrap: Always wrap Teflon tape clockwise (the direction you tighten) so it smooths into the threads instead of unpeeling and bunching up.
Less is More: Use only 2 to 3 drops of liquid sealant or 3 wraps of tape. If it looks like a thick sweater, it will choke the system.
The Red Coating Reality: That red factory coating is a shipping thread protector, NOT a sealant. Apply your own sealant right over it.
Assembly Action:
Thread the supplied 1/4″ Brass Close Nipple into the valve inlet marked “IN”.
Clearance Check: First, ensure the bottom drain port is completely unobstructed by tank mounting legs or frame rails. (EZ AIRRIDE 6-gallon tanks feature pre-engineered clearance for this valve). You need enough physical room to hand-rotate the valve body without interference.
Finish and Fit: Hand-tighten the valve into the tank port. If you need a final turn with a wrench, wrap the valve in a rag to protect the finish. Never over-torque; precision creates the seal, not brute force.
Remote Mount Solution: If tank legs or frame rails prevent the valve from rotating into place, bypass the brass close nipple. Instead, source a 1/4″ NPT x 1/4″ Push-to-Connect 90-degree swivel fitting for the tank port. Run a short length of 1/4″ air line from that elbow into a 1/4″ NPT x 1/4″ straight Push-to-Connect fitting on the valve inlet. This allows you to safely mount the valve in a nearby, accessible spot.
Step 2: Discharge Line (Outlet Port)
Install the supplied 1/4″ Push-to-Connect (PTC) fitting into the “OUT” port using the same sealant rules. Route your 1/4″ line to your discharge zone.
Option A (Permanent Route): Route the hose down and out through the trunk floor. Always use a rubber grommet to prevent the line from chafing against raw metal.
Option B (The Beverage Bottle Trick): Finished trunk floor? Keep a short length of hose tucked neatly under the tank. When it’s time to maintenance, pull the line out, drop the end into an empty plastic beverage bottle, and hit the button. Zero mess on your carpet.
Step 3: Easy Wiring (Power and Ground)
This solenoid uses reverse polarity—it does not matter which wire is power or ground.
The Ground: Secure one lead wire from the valve to a bare metal bolt. Scrape away any rust, grime, or paint. Metal-on-metal contact is everything here; a clean, raw metal ground guarantees your valve gets the full 12-volt snap it needs to purge flawlessly.
The Trigger: Connect the other valve lead wire to the supplied black conduit wire, then route it to either the top or bottom prong of the 3-way momentary switch. The switch can then be mounted in your glovebox, ashtray, or wherever you prefer.
The Power Source: Connect the supplied red wire to the Center Prong of your 3-way momentary switch. Route this wire straight to your vehicle’s fuse panel to establish a clean, dedicated 12-volt power source.
The Trunk Short-Cut (Optional): Save installation time. Instead of routing the 15-foot conduit wire and switch all the way from the trunk up to the front fuse panel, you can snip the wire down and mount the switch anywhere you like in the rear. To power it, splice the red wire from the center prong of your switch directly into Terminal 30 on your compressor relay, or tie straight into the main hot red battery wire feeding that terminal.
Protecting the Heart of Your Build
When water gets into your engine oil, it’s game over. Your air ride is no different. Leaving moisture in the tank creates a corrosive sludge that causes expensive components to choke on debris. Tapping the tank periodically is like “clearing the throat” of your machine, ensuring your high-dollar components only breathe fresh, dry air. It’s a 5-second habit that protects a few thousand dollar investment. Keep the lungs of your machine clear.
EZ Quick-Fix Diagnostics
Symptom: Valve clicks but will not purge.
Solution: Tank must be fully pressurized. This valve operates under load. If your tank is below 100 PSI, there isn’t enough velocity to open the internal diaphragm. Run your compressor to 150–200 PSI and try again.
Symptom: Valve is wired up but there is no Click and no purge.
Solution: Electricity is hitting a dead end. Trace these 3 points:
Power: Ensure the red wire is seated on the Center Prong of your switch and has true 12V.
Switch Leg: Ensure the black wire hits the Upper or Lower Prong of the switch and connects to the valve body.
The Ground: Check your ground bolt. Frame undercoating, paint, and rust act as total insulators. Scrape it down to raw, shiny metal.