EZ AIRRIDE Electric Tank Drain Kit
The Tank-Tap Purge: 1/4 Inch NPT High-Flow (250 PSI)
Handles up to 250 PSI with ease. Features an Inlet Port securing to the bottom of your air tank and an Outlet Port for high-velocity moisture evacuation, controlled via a 3-prong momentary switch. Purge your system without crawling under the chassis or cracking a manual petcock.
🔍 BEFORE YOU INSTALL
For New System Installs: Moisture is a physical reality—any time you compress air, water forms inside your tank. This valve lets you easily purge that moisture before it accumulates and creates a “vacuum effect”—where standing water is pulled out of the tank and blasted through your manifolds, into pressure sensors, or any other internal air suspension components. It prolongs the life of your entire onboard air investment.
For Existing or Older Systems: If your current compressor has stopped running, or is running sporadically and won’t turn off, your pressure switch or sensor is most likely shot due to built-up moisture. Adding this high-flow valve now allows you to easily flush that water out—adding a critical layer of protection that shields your new pressure switch, sensitive manifolds, and other air ride components from here on out.
🛠️ 1-2-3 EZ Install Steps
Step 1: Valve to Air Tank Assembly
Clearance Check (DO THIS FIRST): First, look under your vehicle and ensure the bottom drain port is completely unobstructed by tank mounting legs or frame rails. (EZ AIRRIDE 6-gallon tanks feature pre-engineered clearance for this valve). You need enough physical room to hand-rotate the valve body without interference.
⚠️ CRITICAL: Thread Sealant Rules
The Naked Thread Rule: Leave the first two threads of the brass nipple completely bare. No tape, no liquid. If sealant covers these, metal compression will shear it off and choke the valve internals.
The Clockwise Wrap: Always wrap Teflon tape clockwise (the direction you tighten) so it smooths into the threads instead of unpeeling and bunching up.
Less is More: Use only 2 to 3 drops of liquid sealant or 3 wraps of tape. If it looks like a thick sweater, it will choke the system.
The Red Coating Reality: That red factory coating is a shipping thread protector, NOT a sealant. Apply your own sealant right over it.
Assembly Action: Thread the supplied 1/4″ Brass Close Nipple into the valve inlet marked “IN” using the Thread Sealant Rules above.
Finish and Fit: Hand-tighten the valve into the tank port. If you need a final turn with a wrench, wrap the valve in a rag to protect the finish. Never over-torque; precision creates the seal, not brute force.
Remote Mount Solution: If tank legs or frame rails prevent the valve from rotating into place, bypass the brass close nipple. Instead, source a 1/4″ NPT x 1/4″ Push-to-Connect 90-degree swivel fitting for the tank port, and a 1/4″ NPT straight push-to-connect fitting for the valve inlet marked “IN”. Run a short length of 1/4″ air line between them. This allows you to safely mount the valve in a nearby, accessible spot.
Step 2: Discharge Line (Valve Outlet Port)
Install the supplied 1/4″ Push-to-Connect (PTC) fitting into the “OUT” port using the same sealant rules. Route your 1/4″ line to your discharge zone.
Option A (Permanent Route): Route the hose down and out through the trunk floor. Always use a rubber grommet to prevent the line from chafing against raw metal.
Option B (The Beverage Bottle Trick): Finished trunk floor? Keep a short length of hose tucked neatly under the tank. “When it’s time for maintenance, pull the line out, insert the end into an empty beverage bottle, and hit the button. Zero mess inside your vehicle.”
Step 3: Easy Switch Wiring (With Optional Relay Shortcut)
This 12V solenoid features two identical black wires coming out of the valve body. Because it uses reverse polarity, it does not matter which wire acts as your power or your ground.
The Ground: Take either of the two black lead wires from the valve and secure it to a bare metal bolt. Scrape away any rust, grime, or paint. Metal-on-metal contact is everything here; a clean, raw metal ground guarantees your valve gets the full 12-volt snap it needs to purge flawlessly.
The Power Trigger: Take the remaining black lead wire from the valve and connect it to the supplied black conduit extension wire. Route that conduit wire up to either the top or bottom prong of your 3-prong momentary switch. The switch can then be mounted in your glovebox, ashtray, or wherever you prefer.
The Power Source: Connect the supplied red wire to the Center Prong of your 3-prong momentary switch. Route this wire straight to your vehicle’s fuse panel to establish a clean, dedicated 12-volt power source.
The Trunk Short-Cut (Optional): Save installation time if you choose to mount your momentary switch in the trunk or truck bed area near your air tank setup. Instead of extending the supplied 5-foot red power wire all the way up to the front dashboard fuse panel, you can power the switch right there at the source—your compressor relay. To do this, splice the red wire from the center prong directly into Terminal 30 on your relay (the hot 8-gauge battery feed).
⚠️ NOTE: Because Terminal 30 is a constant battery source, your electric drain valve will have standby power even when the vehicle is turned off. Because your kit uses a spring-loaded momentary switch, it will not cause a parasitic battery drain while parked, but the valve can be activated if the button is pushed. If you prefer the switch to be completely dead when the ignition key is off, do not use this shortcut—instead, route your wiring to a keyed accessory fuse at your front dashboard fuse panel.
🛡️ Protecting the Heart of Your Air Ride Build
When water gets into your engine oil, it’s game over. Your air ride is no different. Leaving moisture in the tank creates a corrosive sludge that causes expensive components to choke on debris. Tapping the tank periodically is like “clearing the throat” of your machine, ensuring your high-dollar components only breathe fresh, dry air. It’s a 5-second habit that protects a few thousand dollar investment. Keep the lungs of your machine clear.
🛑 Electric Air Suspension Drain Valve Troubleshooting & Diagnostics
Symptom: Valve clicks but will not purge.
Solution: Tank must be fully pressurized. This valve operates under load. If your tank is below 100 PSI, there isn’t enough velocity to open the internal diaphragm. Run your compressor to 150–200 PSI and try again.
Symptom: Valve is wired up but there is no click and no purge.
Solution: Electricity is hitting a dead end. Trace these 3 points:
Power: Ensure the red wire is securely seated on the Center Prong of your switch and has a true 12V feed.
Switch Leg: Ensure the black conduit extension wire successfully hits the Upper or Lower Prong of the switch and connects seamlessly to the valve body.
The Ground: Check your ground bolt. Frame undercoating, paint, and rust act as total insulators. Scrape it down to raw, shiny metal.