The Power Shield

In the world of air ride, the relay is your Front Line Defense. It stands between your power source and your pressure switch, absorbing the heavy electrical shock so your pressure switch doesn’t have to. By using 12-gauge 100% U-L tinned-copper power leads—the absolute maximum gauge a 30/40 amp relay terminal can physically support—we provide the highest possible current capacity for high-output compressors.

Installation 1-2-3 (Quick-Start Guide)

No guesswork. Just Color-Match and go:

1. Red (30) Power Wire: Connect to your fused battery source. This is the main feed for your system.

2. Gray (87) Pump Wire: Connect directly to your compressor’s positive wire.

3. White (86) Trigger Wire: Connect to your pressure switch wire. Since the pressure switch wires are non-polar, it doesn’t matter which of the two switch wires you choose.

4. Black (85) Ground Wire: Connect to a “Clean, Solid, Bare” chassis ground.

The Specs

Clear-Cube Visual Diagnostic Housing: No more guessing.

Integrated Green LED: Live circuit feedback.

12-Gauge 100% UL Tinned-Copper Power Wires: Heavy-duty current handling with superior corrosion resistance.

12-Inch Extended Leads: Mount it high and dry, away from heat.

16-Gauge Trigger Wires: Clean signal for your switch.

Quick Fix Diagnostics & Troubleshooting

If you believe you have all the wires connected correctly, but the Green LED is off or not illuminated, here are our thoughts on where to look first:

 GREEN LIGHT IS OFF:

Your Signal Path is broken. Your relay isn’t even “waking up” because it isn’t receiving the command to turn on.

The Bypass Test: To verify the relay’s internal circuit, take the White (86) Trigger Wire and touch it directly to the positive terminal of your battery. This is a safe, standard test and will not damage the LED.

If the Green Light turns on: Your relay is 100% functional. This proves the relay is healthy and just waiting for a signal. You now need to trace back from the relay to find where you lost your power. Check your in-line fuses, verify your ignition source is actually “hot” with the key on, and double-check every crimp and connection between the battery and the trigger.

If the Green Light stays off: Your relay isn’t grounded.

The Ghost Ground: 90% of the time, you’re dealing with a “Ghost Ground.” A ground wire might look like it’s on a solid bolt, but it’s actually sitting on hidden rust or thick factory paint. For this relay to wake up, that Black Ground wire needs 100% clean, shiny, bare metal. If you don’t see green, go back to that ground and scrape it down to the steel.

GREEN LIGHT IS ON (But Pump is Not Running):

Your Signal Path is perfect, but your Power Path is broken. The relay is “awake” and trying to send juice, but there’s no juice to send.

Where to look: Go straight to your Main In-Line Fuse on the 8-gauge power wire near the battery. Open the holder and verify the fuse isn’t blown.

Check the Red (30) Power Wire: Don’t just look at it—ensure the connection at the battery terminal is tight and free of corrosion, and check that your crimp or solder joint on the Red wire hasn’t pulled loose. If the light is on, the relay is doing its job; the power is simply getting “blocked” before it can get to the pump.

Safety & Pro-Tips

Mounting Location: If you are mounting this outside of a trunk—such as under the bed of a truck or along a frame rail—ensure it is tucked away from direct road spray and debris.

Heat Management: Use the 12-inch extended leads to mount the relay as far away from the compressor as possible. Compressors generate extreme heat; keeping the relay in a cooler “low-heat” zone ensures a much longer lifespan for the electronics.

Smart Orientation: Always mount the Clear-Cube Diagnostic Housing in a position where the LED is easily visible for quick future checks.

No-Splice Advantage: Our 12-inch leads give you the “breathing room” to tuck the relay away neatly for a professional, “show-quality” finish without the need for messy extensions.