EZ AIRRIDE Electric Tank Drain Kit

The Tank-Tap Purge: 1/4″ NPT High-Flow (250 PSI)

The Specs & Operation

This compact powerhouse is roughly half the size of a roll of pennies but handles up to 250 PSI with ease. It features an Inlet Port that secures directly to the bottom of your air tank and an Outlet Port for high-velocity moisture evacuation. Controlled by a 3-way momentary switch, it allows you to purge your system without ever crawling under the chassis or cracking a manual petcock.

1-2-3 EZ Install 

Step 1: 

Valve to Tank Assembly

Thread the supplied 1/4″ Brass Close Nipple into the valve inlet (marked “IN”).

• Pro Tip: Sealing Technique Matters

• The Naked Thread Rule: Always leave the first two threads of your brass nipple completely bare. No tape, no liquid.

• The Science: Those first two threads are the narrowest part of the taper; they are designed to find the opening and guide the fitting in.

• The Risk: If sealant covers these, the sheer force of the metal-on-metal compression will shear the sealant off  and push it into the valve, which can lead to a mechanical malfunction or an unwanted leak. 

• The Clockwise Wrap: Always wrap your Teflon tape clockwise (the direction you tighten). This allows the friction of the install to smooth the tape down into the threads. Wrapping in the opposite direction can cause the tape to “unpeel” and bunch up during installation, preventing a consistent seal.

• Less is More: 2 to 3 drops of professional liquid sealant—or 3 wraps of tape—is the ideal amount. If your fitting looks like it’s wearing a thick sweater, you’ve used too much. When you thread it in, the taper will spread the sealant for you. More doesn’t mean a better seal; it just means more mess and a higher chance of a system choke.

• The Red Coating Reality: That red factory coating you see on the threads is NOT a final sealant. It is actually a “thread protector” designed to keep the brass edges from getting dinged or damaged during shipping. Always apply the supplied sealant over it to ensure an airtight seal.

• The Finish & Fit Rule: Hand-tighten the valve body into the tank port first. If you need a final turn with a wrench, wrap the valve in a rag to protect the finish. Never over-torque; because these are tapered threads, the seal happens through precision, not brute force.

• Clearance Check:  Ensure your chosen drain port is unobstructed by tank mounting legs. (EZ Air Ride 6 gallon tanks are pre-engineered with dedicated clearance for this valve). You need enough room to hand-rotate the valve body without interference.

• The Remote Mount Solution: If your tank legs or frame rails prevent the valve from rotating into place, you can “Remote Mount” the valve. Simply source two 1/4″ NPT to 1/4″ PTC fittings and a length of 1/4″ air line. This allows you to mount the valve in a nearby, accessible location without sacrificing drainage performance.

Step 2: Discharge Line (Outlet Port)

Install the supplied 1/4″ PTC (Push-to-Connect)  fitting into the outlet port. Use the same sealant technique here as you did on the inlet. From this port, you can route a length of 1/4″ air hose to your preferred discharge location.

• The Permanent Route: For a set-it-and-forget-it setup, route the air hose down and out through the trunk floor. Pro Tip: Always use a rubber grommet where the line passes through metal for a clean, professional look and to prevent the line from chafing.

• The Beverage Bottle Trick: If you have a finished trunk floor, a fuel tank directly underneath your air tank, or something else blocking your path and you don’t want to drill an exit hole. Simply cut a short length of air hose (just enough to bend or pull forward) and keep it tucked neatly under the tank. When it’s time to maintenance the system, pull that line out, tuck the end into the neck of an empty beverage bottle, and hit the button. You’ll catch the moisture instantly and see exactly what was sitting in your tank without making a mess on your carpet.

Step 3: Easy Wiring (Power & Ground)

The solenoid valve uses reverse polarity, meaning it doesn’t matter which lead wire you choose for power or ground.

• The Ground: Secure one lead to a bare metal bolt. Ensure there is zero rust, grease, or decades-old paint. A “clean bar” ground is the difference between a reliable purge and a dead valve.

• The Trigger: Use the pre-heat-shrunk red hot wire for your switch.

• Cockpit Mount: Route the conduit wire to your glovebox or ashtray for easy access from the driver’s seat.

• The Trunk Short-Cut: If you prefer a trunk-mounted button, you can tap the red power wire directly into Terminal 30 on your compressor relay. This provides a constant 12V source already available in the rear, saving you from running wires to the dash.

The Vital Role: Protecting the Heart of Your Build

Air and water are like oil and water—they do not belong together.

Every car guy knows that when water gets into your oil, it’s game over for your engine. It’s the same for your air ride. Think of your air system like your own lungs: you wouldn’t want to inhale water or a stray bug because you’d choke. Your air ride is no different. If moisture stays in the tank, it turns into a corrosive sludge that forces your manifolds, or sensors to “choke” on debris.

By tapping the tank periodically, you are “clearing the throat” of your machine. You’re ensuring your high-dollar components only breathe fresh, dry air. It’s a 5-second habit that protects a $5,000 investment. Don’t let a “cracked head gasket” mentality ruin your suspension—keep the Lungs of your Machine clear.

EZ Quick-Fix Diagnostics

• Symptoms: Valve clicks but won’t purge.

• Solutions: Ensure the tank is fully pressurized. This high-performance valve is engineered to operate under load. If your tank is only partially filled (below 100 PSI), there may not be enough internal velocity to open the diaphragm or clear the discharge line. Run your compressor until the system reaches its shut-off point (150–200 PSI) and try again.

• Symptoms:  Valve is wired up but there is no “Click” and no purge.

• Solutions: This valve operates on a simple circuit—power in, power out. If it isn’t clicking, the “electricity” is hitting a dead end. Trace your path exactly like this:

1. The Power Lead: Ensure your red power wire is fully seated on the Center Prong of the trigger switch and connected to a clean 12V source.

2. The Switch Leg: Ensure your black conduit wire is fully engaged on either the Upper or Lower Prong of the trigger switch and connected to one of the two leads on the valve body. (Either prong will work to complete the circuit when the switch is pressed).

3. The Ground (The “Kill” Point): The remaining wire from the valve must be grounded to bare, shiny metal. Decades of paint, hidden rust, or thick frame undercoating act as an insulator. If you are grounded to a bolt, the metal underneath that bolt must be clean to ensure a true connection.